To get the most from your RC vehicle, you should know a few things about vehicle suspension tuning. If you can master RC suspension tuning, you can make your car work at any track and on any surface. Competition X has put together a RC suspension tuning guide that explains tuning options available on most cars.
While the process of adjusting the tuning feature might differ slightly from vehicle to vehicle, the actual tuning function will still be the same. If you decide to get adventurous and start making changes, you could end up with an ill-handling vehicle. If you need one, you can head on over to the Competition X Blank Setup Sheet section and download a copy.
Please feel free to contact me if there are any tuning features not listed. Pingback: NIRC.
Pingback: chassis settings - RCShortCourse. Pingback: Team Associated RC8. Pingback: back end feels loose - RCShortCourse. Pingback: Yeti Suspension,Too soft? RC Suspension Tuning Guide. Share Facebook Twitter Pinterest. Shock Mounting Locations. Steering Throw Symmetry.There are very few, if any, situations where more suspension travel is better. The more travel you have your rig set-up for, the harder it is to tune. This article is meant to help people better understand suspension travel.
I will go over different scenarios that come up during competitions and try to explain what set-up works where and why.
Most new comers to the RC rock crawling world think that tons of suspension travel articulation is key when competing. When, in actuality, limited suspension travel is probably better in almost every situation you encounter during a competition. Plus, having a shorter travel set-up usually means you have a lower center of gravity CG. Having a lot of articulation usually leads to quite a bit of axle steer as well. Rig set-up, and tires, will be a big factor in dictating whether you can make these climbs or not.
The best suspension set-up for obstacles like this is a short travel suspension that is fairly stiff. Properly set-up suspensions on steep faces will usually walk right up them with little to no drama. Vehicles that have a lot of travel will usually struggle on these types of obstacles though. Front tires will most likely want to lift on steep climbs if your rig is set-up for too much travel.
Even if you run a somewhat stiff suspension set-up your rig will still probably want to lift wheels in the air. As soon as your rig starts lifting the front tires you are losing traction and forward bite. Keeping the front tires planted on steep climbs is a key element to making these types of obstacles. A good way to test your set-up is by using a piece of plywood with an abrasive surface on it, like sandpaper.
This can be set-up at a given angle just about anywhere to test how steep your rig can climb, and to see how much lift you get out of the front tires. Once you have the plywood obstacle set-up. Try to crawl to the top of the plywood as slowly as you can. Here are a couple pictures of my comp rig climbing a steep face.
I recently removed almost all of my front wheel weight just to lighten my rig up a little. There is only a few ounces in each front wheel now. And it will still climb steep faces without lifting tires. Lifting front tires on climbs like this will also probably pull you off your intended line. Keeping all 4 tires planted is the key. Gates are usually set-up on a steep face, and they will most likely require you to drive through them at an odd angle. Having too much travel on obstacles like this can hurt you too.
All 4 tires will need to stay in contact with the obstacle for you to successfully negotiate it. Having a front tire lift on these off camber obstacles will pretty much guarantee you a one way ticket to the bottom of the obstacle before you clear the intended gate. A lot of times there is a fine line between a shock set-up being too soft or too stiff. Ideally, you want the suspension to be as stiff as possible without it limiting your shock travel. That is why playing around with different shock pistons, springs and oil is so crucial when dialing a new rig in.
Notice my foam set-up is very soft, maybe even too soft.You have probably noticed that your Axial Racing vehicle has options for mounting items such as the shocks or camber links.
These options allow you to tune for maximum performance. Well, they allow you to tune for maximum performance if you know what each adjustment is and how it works. This is where this post and Part 1 come in.
Wheelbase While some suspension tuning is subtle, wheelbase makes a fairly noticeable change in handling on a rock crawler. It is, however, a subtle change on most high-speed vehicles. Not to be confused with track width, wheelbase—easily viewed from the side—is the distance from the center of the front to the center of the rear tires.
A longer wheelbase makes a vehicle more stable. A fast machine such as the EXO Terra Buggy has a long overall wheelbase notice its long stretched-out chassis plate to better handle rough terrain while traveling at high speeds.
Lengthening the wheelbase of a SCX10 will help increase stability while climbing ledges and rock staircase-style obstacles. If your crawler wants to tip over backwards when making climbs, a longer wheelbase may help. On the EXO, the wheelbase is adjusted by moving shims plastic spacers on either side of the rear hub.
This is, indeed, a subtle change. When a longer wheelbase is achieved by moving the spacers in front of the hub, steering response is actually slightly increased as the weight distribution changes and more weight will be on the front tires, which increases front traction. A stiff spring will not easily compress for every bump and, in contrast, a spring that is too soft will not properly support the vehicle and will compress too easily and too much. Stiffer springs help absorb bigger impacts from bigger air.
Softer springs help a suspension react quickly to rough terrain. Stiffer front springs are often used to keep a vehicle from spinning out as stiffer springs reduce traction.
The key is to find the right front to rear combination that provides the amount of steering you want and the over stiffness needed for the type of terrain your tackling and the weight of your vehicle. Shock Position Shock position refers to the different mounting positions on the suspension arms and shock towers. Changing shock position on a lower suspension arm changes how much leverage the suspension arm places on the shock.
Moving the lower shock mount in towards the chassis will create a softer feeling shock. It will feel the same as going to a softer spring. Moving the lower shock mount out on the arm decreases the leverage of the arm on the shock and will make the shock feel stiffer. Changing the shock position on the tower is a more subtle change. Moving the upper shock out will put the shock in a more vertical position. This creates a linear feel for the spring. Shock Oil The oil in your shock is what makes a shock absorber a shock absorber.
While the shock absorbs impacts from bumps and jumps so to speak what is really going on is the piston moving through the oil absorbs or transfers the energy of the spring. Otherwise, without the oil, the vehicle would bounce up and down repeatably after each bump and jump. Thicker oil will slow the piston down and generally feel like a stiffer spring. The opposite is true of thinner oil. Shock oil should be changed as part of routine maintenance how often depends on how much use your vehicle gets and how dusty the conditions are.
Shock oil can also be changed for extreme temperatures. Whether the holes are in the edge of the piston or in the piston, like shock oil, the size and the number of the holes in the shock pistons control how fast the piston moves through the oil. Large holes allow the piston to move quickly and small holes slow the piston down. Switching to smaller holes in the piston will allow a shock to offer more resistance to fast movement such as landings from big jumps.
Keep in mind that if there is too much resistance, the shock will not properly absorb impact. Pistons offer the same rate on rebound as they do on compression. This allows the shock to absorb an impact and then quickly return to normal position, ready for the next impact.Exclusive Content. From Element RC : A rig built to endure. When hitting the trail, you want to do it with performance and confidence.
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Show ad. Newsletter popup. Show offer.Welcome to RCCrawler Forums. It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more.
Register now! Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message. Suspension Tuning.Do droop links really help?
Afternoon all Happy New Year! I'm after some advice with setup for shocks on my RC. In use it articulates well and is pretty stable but im just thinking with the upgraded chassis and other parts am i missing a trick!? Thanks, Nige.
Sponsored Links. Re: Suspension Tuning. What kind of chassis are you running? I'd suggest shorter shocks stock lengthlower the body a few notches, and then tune with springs. I like my rigs stiffer in the front because it's more predictable for my driving style.
That, of course, will vary with everyone you ask. I like dual rate coil spring shocks like there here. The top spring, more or less, sets the ride height softer of the two springsand the bottom spring does the grunt of the work stiffer of the two springs.
Adjustable collars to set preload helps fine-tune. An assortment of various spring rates helps with getting things dialed in like these here. I only run oil in the shocks to keep the shaft lubricated.
I do add oil when I build them, but it seems to leak out over time some shocks sooner than others. I don't use my rigs with speed enough to need true dampening like a shock. It can help with hopping while spinning, though.Welcome to RCCrawler Forums. It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more.
Register now! Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message. Suspension tuning. Truck weighs 6. Slow, crawling driving style. Setups ive tried so far. Too much body roll on side hill.
Did decent otherwise. Body roll improved, but still too much of it. Springs are a tad too stiff tho and opposite corners don't bottom out crossing a ditch at an angle, so truck teeters and rolls over. Out of the above setups, 3 seems headed in a nice direction. Springs a few steps softer than the Traxxas reds may be real nice, if I can find out what they are. I've got 3-hole pistons and 20wt oil I've not played with yet tho, so don't want to overlook what they may provide.
Last edited by number9; at AM. Sponsored Links. Re: Suspension tuning.This is the date and time in which the association set was created with microsecond precision. True when the association set has been created in the development mode. The dictionary of input fields' ids or fields' names and values used as input for the association set. In a future version, you will be able to share association sets with other co-workers or, if desired, make them publicly available.
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